Wandering the Old Streets of Lisbon

By Molly S on October 13, 2014 • ( 33 Comments )

I have a confession to make.

I went to Lisbon last week – for a whole week – and I did absolutely nothing.

Well, that’s not strictly true. I ate what seemed like huge numbers of pastéis de nata (custard tarts to you and me) and equally large amounts of grilled sardine. I discovered a taste for the local vinho verde, or green wine. I read three books that had been patiently waiting on my bookshelf for almost six months, and I baked my sun-starved skin on the riverfront every afternoon along with most of the rest of the city. I went to bed late, and got up late, and I danced on the balcony to the reggae that pumped out every evening from the tiny bar downstairs. I didn’t even look at a guide book, or any Lisbon blogs or websites, and the attractions I did see were pretty much by accident. I didn’t write a word – in fact, I didn’t even take the laptop.

I’m guessing that I had what most people would call a proper holiday!

When I wasn’t eating or drinking or reading, though, I wandered. No goal, no destination, nothing in mind. It’s a favourite pastime of mine! And the streets of the Moorish Alfama, where my apartment was hidden, are made for it. It’s the oldest part of the city – the only part to have survived the earthquake (and subsequent devastating fire) of 1755 – and while the whole of Lisbon seemed to me to be a place of old-world charm and bohemian vibrancy, in the Alfama time appeared to be standing still. Tiny, cobbled streets wound up and down the hill, sometimes so narrow that you could reach out both arms and touch the tall, colourful houses either side. Washing draped over wrought-iron balconies, and most doorways had someone sitting in them, watching the world go by with a coffee and a cigarette. Tiny, specialist shops looked like they’d been fashioned out of someone’s front room; hole-in-the-wall bars, serving the local (lethal) cherry liquor, were on every corner. Old-fashioned gas lamps were still suspended over the streets. The modern sights of cars and motorbikes (and sounds of that reggae) only added to the other-worldly feel of this part of town, and, while it was tempting to jump on one of the tuk-tuk tours that whizz up and down the hill, it’s really best explored on foot. A decent pair of shoes and a few euros for sweet treats and coffee (or shots of that cherry liquor!) and you’re good to go!

But take it slowly. Life in the Alfama can’t be rushed…….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I should maybe add that I did a bit of an experiment in Lisbon, and I left my camera at home. These were taken on an iPhone, and haven’t really been edited – I’m quite pleased with the results! Even if I did spend most of the week feeling like something was missing / thinking that I’d left it somewhere……

Linking up with Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox for Travel Photo Thursdays.

Categories: Lisbon, Portugal

Tagged as: Alfama, lisbon, photography, photos